Tuesday, May 29, 2007
The reason the parrot loves surfin'
"Surfins the source, it'll change your life". If you haven't seen Point Break then your a total Barney, a total guppy in the game. I hung out with Lori Petty on Memorial Day, a totally radical venice vixen. I had to google her pic cuz she would've probably kicked the shit out of me and broken my camera if I had tried to take a flick. Maybe not, she did call me baby when she left. Anyway she's a tuff chick....even tuffer than in the movie.
Here's some terms you should be familiar with if you're tryin' to hang....ten.
Bells Beach- one of the great point breaks. On the south Victorian coastline of Australia. The 30 year storm brah, where Pat Swayze doesn't come back, WiPE oUT.
Drop In- Dropping in is a crime in the surf world. A drop-in is where a surfer catches a wave where he / she does not have priority. I.E. there is already a surfer on the wave. This is why Johnny Utah got beat down by Anthony Kiedis & Warchild.
Dumping- Often caused by onshore conditions, where a wave will fold over in big sections, making it un-surfable. Or when you take a shit in the ocean.
Locked In-When a wave crashes and the surfer is inside of it.
Swell-Waves! Swell, or Groundswell refers to solid, real waves. Scary shit basically...
Zonal- Weather pattern term which means that all of the storm activity in one particular region is moving in a consistent west-to-east pattern along the same latitude. Just sounds cool.
Barney - the equivalent of toy or herb
Cowabunga -Exclamation to exhibit extreme happiness or to describe the act of being overjoyed.
Epic -Beyond the usual or ordinary. Generally used in the positive sense. Example: "The surf was epic today."
Fascist -Originally, a member of the Fascisti, formed by Benito Mussolini, a political movement espousing extremely anti-democratic principles. In the Surfing world, individuals with no regard or respect for their fellow surfers are Fascist.
Flip-Flop -The unofficially sanctioned footwear of surfers.
Full On - An affirmation or an agreement. Expletive for absolutely, right on, etc. Can also describe an action. "The surf was full on today."
Gnar -Crazy. Same thing as gnarly but sounds better. Example: "That was a gnar barrel." Also can be used twice, Gnar Gnar. Also used to describe an ugly girl.
Gnarmin -Something that is gnarly and can't get any more lame. Never heard this one actually used.
Hang Loose -Being in a relaxed metabolic and clear minded state. Inverse application of up Tight, Circa '60s.
Hundreds -Word meaning good, excellent, enjoyable. "Hey brah, that session was hundreds."
Karma -Your inner spirit. Your Chi, Bruddah. It makes surfing and riding what the ocean has to offer such a life enhancing experience.
Kook -Beginner or inexperienced surfer that's less than adept at surfing, like New Jack? Piker?
Locals -Those who regularly surf at a particular break or area, the parrot is a venice local so don't hasselhoff me brah.
North Shore -The area on the North side of Oahu, Hawaii. This area is probably most notable for being the home of Pipeline, Sunset and Velzyland. Some of the heaviest, most dangerous breaks in the world.
Poser -A non-surfer playing the role of a surfer; a kook.
Stoked-Condition of being amped, wound up or just full of enthusiasm. Example: "I'm stoked. I just got tubed!"
Tubular -When waves break like a barrel. Also '80s for something that is really cool.
Thirty Year Storm- Once everythirty years the ocean lets us know how little we really are...
Waimea- Hawaiian bay that receives and holds huge North Shore winter swells. "Theres no way Bells Beach is bigger than Waimea brah."
Get ready for an endless summer of waves & bodacious babes!
The other reason I got into surfing was Steve Nazar, O.G. T&C artist.
www.SteveNazar.com. The Parrot salutes you!